K40 Laser Cutter Rebuild (12x24in)
Intro
If you are reading this post, you most likely already know about the cheap 40 Watt CO2 Lasers available from China which are commonly referred to as K40s. There are several sub variants of the K40 but generally they are in a white and blue or red steel case and have a cutting area of 12 x 8 in (500 x 300mm). The original Chinese manufactures state they are for making stamps and as such will come with a very weird set of features and mechanics that are “optimized” (Very generous term) for this function.
Quick Reference Links
The stock machine is capable of basic laser operations at reasonable speeds but has been ham strung by the use of a proprietary controller board, called a Moshi Board. This board communicates with a computer running Corel Draw. Most of the time, when you purchase a K40, it will come with an illegal copy (Trial Copy maybe) of Corel draw. I personally don’t like this as a permanent solution, so I choose right out of the gate to replace the electronics with a more legit, and open hardware/software solution. I knew I would do that before even purchasing the machine. If you are interested in just upgrading the electronics, this guide will cover some of that as well. Even with the reworked electronics, I quickly became tired of the “sub-par” mechanics. My machine would bind and move unreliably. After some tinkering, I decided finally to just rip the old mechanics out. Being committed to gutting the cutter, I decided to see just how big of a cutting area I could get. Please take note that I have included the STP (Generated in Fusion 360) file on Thingiverse, please use this for reference as this guide, being done from memory, may miss a few items.
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BEFORE |
AFTER |
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Get The Files
Most of the parts required for this conversion will be 3D printed. The rest can be ordered through amazon, or Openbuilds.com. Links to many of the items used can be found below in the Bill of Materials.
The 3D printed parts are available over on thingiverse at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3401855. I printed everything out of PETG at a 0.2mm layer height on an Ender 3.
The Tear Down
To start, we will need to empty the case of everything (Proceed at your own risk as we are dealing with high voltage, cutting and Lasers).
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Start by FIRST taking a picture of your wiring. That way, you will have a reference of how things were before you/we broke it. Don’t stress, there is also a wiring diagram below. However, there is a chance your power supply (PSU) is different, so please make sure it looks the same before using my work as an example.
- Make sure the Mains power is disconnected and let the power supply sit over night (Just to be safe)
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I would recommend you unscrew all of the wires and remove all of the switches, gauges, and everything else from the right hand side of the machine first.
- If your machine is like mine, you will have a RED wire going from the PSU (Blue power supply) through the case to the back of the laser. You can follow the instructions online for changing the laser tube to learn how to disconnect this wire, or you can be lazy like I was and just cut the wire half way between the PSU and the Laser Tube. This wire appears thick on the outside but is actually very thin on the inside. It appears to have a LOT of insulation. Keep that in mind when splicing it back together. I wrapped mine with ample electrical tape.
- Next, the two lids (Doors) can be removed. Raise them up and you will find a spring loaded pin on one side of each lid, pull the pin back and the lids should just come right off.
- Disassemble / remove the X-Y mechanism. The whole unit will come out as one piece.
- The center divider as well as the front support “shelf” will need to be cut out. Use a grinder or rotary tool to cut the tac welds. I was able to cut several of the welds and those I couldn’t reach I was able to bend the metal back and forth until they snapped.
- I used an orbital sander to knock the metal burs down and get the bottom of the case smooth.
Preparation for new Install
I masked everything off on the case that I didn’t want to be painted. Then, I gave the interior of the case a good coat of self-etching primer
- The bottom of the case is not actually super flat, nor rigid. Not to mention the two large holes that the manufacture thought were a create idea to add to the bottom of a laser.
- To solve this problem, I cut a piece of 1/2in MDF (Any 1/2in sheet good will do) to 29.75in x 18.5in.
- I cut a thin piece of aluminum sheet (Purchased at local Home Improvement Store) to the same dimensions.
I then laminated the aluminum sheet to the piece of MDF
- Taking both the primed case and the laminated board outside, I applied several layers of Rustoleum Flat White
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Before placing the laminated board into the case, I added the two horizontal pieces of 2020 V slot. Two pieces, both 29.75in long were attached to the board, one along the front edge and the other along the back. I attached these to the board by drilling and countersinking 4 holes along the front and 4 along the back from the bottom of the board. The V Slot was then attached using M5 screws and T nuts:
- Place the Board inside the case, but do not secure it. We will do that later, once everything else is installed. Things will be tight and you want the flexibility for now.
Installing the Y Axis
- Start by assembling the Left Y Axis. Cut two lengths of 2040 V slot to fit (Mine were 17.75in each). All of the screws used were M5. I used full size V bearings with eccentric bushings for the top two bearings and fixed spacers for the bottom two.
- Then Assemble the right Y Axis:
- Place the Left and Right assemblies into the case, lining the brackets up with the front and rear 2020. Install the M5 bolts with T nuts into the brackets, but leave them loose in the V slot for now as you will want to be able to move the assembly in the next step.
- The left and right y carriages are driven by a single motor. They are connected in the back with a piece of 5/16 in threaded rod. Install the Motor to shaft coupler on the left side of the screw. Then Cut the screw to a length that is long enough to get through the bearing mount on the right carriage assembly, but not so long that you can’t get it installed with the amount of play you have available. Mine ended up just under 28in. You will want to also install the right pulley as well.
- Now is a good time to attach the belts on the left and right carriage. Reference the photo below for how I did it. I zip tied the belt to one of the M5 bolts on the carriage, then routed it around the pulley and then the idler before I zip tied the other end to the other bolt. (HINT: Loosen the pulley a little before routing the belt, then after the belt is secure, add tension by pulling the pulley back into position and securing.)
Installing Lighting
- Okay, it is a little out of order, but I felt I needed more light while working. I picked up an RGB LED strip kit from a clearance isle but you can get them from Amazon Pretty Easily. I wrapped it along the top inner lip. It was super easy, super cheap and made a great addition. The one I got was USB powered.
Installing the X Axis
- Cut a piece of 2040 V Slot to length (Mine was 29.3in)
- Assemble the X Carriage using 3 Large V Bearings with an eccentric spacer on the rear bearing. Slide it onto the rail.
- Attach the Motor Mount, with stepper motor and the pulley.
- Attach the mirror mount
- Attach the end stop (M3 screws)
- Attach the Mirror Holder (Stock from K40)
- Route and attach the belt in the same way as the y carriage assembly, loosening the pulley during routing and then tensioning the belt by pulling the pulley back into position.
- The astute observer may have now noticed that the X Carriage laser head is not stock. I picked this one up off amazon for cheap. It is solid aluminum with an adjustable height lenses and air assist assembly. This allows for adjustment up to 10 mm in height which will allow me to have a static cutting bed that does not need to adjust up and down. The build quality of this part is not the best, but the adjustability was worth the trouble.
- Take the X Axis assembly and place it into the case. Attach it to the Y carriages with M5 screws.
The Bed
- I thought about how to build the cutting bed for a long time. The first iteration used a metal grate bought at the local hardware store. This worked fine, but left burn marks where ever the laser cut through and hit the grill. Professional machines use aluminum honeycomb, so I went looking for that. I found a reasonable price on Amazon and picked up a 12x24x1in piece. When I got it, I was surprised that, although 1in thick, it was still a little bit flexible… I would have to support it on all sides…
A little bit of time later, I came up with the following:
- Four lengths of 1in aluminum angle iron.
- 2 x 22.9 in
- 2 x 18 in with a 45 deg cut off one end
- I 3D printed the corner pieces, used them as a guide for drilling the mounting holes into the aluminum, then tapped the aluminum. I then used (Don’t be mad, its what I had) #4-40 x 0.25in screws to secure through the plastic and into the aluminum. You could just as well use M3 or M2.5 screws.
- The whole assembly slides into the case and secures in the front with M5 bolts. The back is left floating, resting on the rear 2020 V slot.
Secure the Assembly
This is not a long section, but it is important. Now would be a good time to secure the whole assembly in the case. I found sliding the assembly all of the way forward worked well. I then slide it as far left as I could, leaving about 1/4in clearance between the outer wall of the case and the X axis motor. Run the head around a bit by hand and evaluate that it makes since in that location. When I was happy I used self tapping screws to come up from below through the bottom of the case, into the 1/2in sheet of MDF. This is also why you will see me assembling the unit on saw horses, I anticipated the need to work from below.
LID
- I reinstalled the lids and bolted the two halves together, using an existing hole in the middle of the two halves.
- Then, I used some of the left over aluminum sheet from the bed and taped it in place with Aluminum Tape over the now exposed holes in the lid.
Electronics
- I was putting this off. The first thing you may notice in the images above is that there is no longer any room for the electronics inside of the case. Luckily, I had a salvaged case that worked perfectly for my needs. I’m sorry I don’t have a source for this part, it literally was pulled from a trash bin. You can see it mounted to the right side of my machine immediately above.
- First, I made a new face plate for the case. This face plate had an Amp meter, a Main Power and a Laser Power Switch. I cut this from sheet plastic by hand. The switches were salvaged from the original unit. The AMP meter was purchased from here: “Uxcell a11052500ux0047 0-20mA Analog DC Current Panel Meter Ammeter 85C1-A”
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- Then, in the upper right corner of the case I drilled a 1in hole into the Laser Tube area. This hole served to route the laser power wires. I also drilled a hole in the lower right corner to route the motor and end stop wires.
- I then secured the PSU (I removed the blue film from the PSU, so now it is silver) and the Arduino Uno with GRBL shield.
- I then wired it as follows (A big thank you to http://donsthings.blogspot.com who has done a lot of research on these units and from which I based much of my work)
Wiring Diagram
GRBL Shield
- In the above it is worth pointing out again the PWM signal. Using GRBL 1.1 the PWM signal was present on the End Stop -Z pin, not the Spindle Direction or Spindle Enable. I should also not that I tied the Laser Fire pin straight to ground to reduce the number of connections and complexity. I have not had an issue with this setup, but use at your own risk. I keep the laser switch off until just before I run a program. I also always turn the laser switch off before opening the lid. A recommended upgrade would be to place in series another switch to detect if the lid is open. I have opted to delay that upgrade.
- The end stops and motors were then wired as the GRBL shield was marked.
- You will also need to install stepper motor drivers in the X and Y axis and tune them accordingly. I leave those details to other sources that have covered it much better than I will.
Software and Firmware
GRBL (I don’t know what it stands for) is open source firmware for Arduinos to control a CNC via a serial port. Head over to: https://github.com/gnea/grbl to download the most recent version. On there site you will also find a wealth of information on how to configure it and get it up and running. Newer versions even have a dedicated Laser mode!!! GRBL will be installed on an Arduino Uno, then the GRBL Shield will be placed on top of the Arduino to make interfacing easier. Any G Code sender Software can be used to drive GRBL, but my two favorites are:
Coming from using MARLIN and other 3D printer firmware, configuring GRBL was a refreshing experience. Most configuration for Marlin requires you to edit the source files. GRBL doesn’t really require this step for most 3 axis setups. I downloaded GRBL 1.1 and scanned the config.h file. In the end I only made one change to the file before uploading it.
I modified the homing cycles since my machine only has an x and y axis:
// REQUIRED: First move Z to clear workspace
#define HOMING_CYCLE_0 (1<<Z_AXIS)
#define HOMING_CYCLE_1 ((1<<X_AXIS)|(1<<Y_AXIS))
To: #define HOMING_CYCLE_0 ((1<<X_AXIS)|(1<<Y_AXIS)) //#define HOMING_CYCLE_1 ((1<<X_AXIS)|(1<<Y_AXIS))
Honestly though, this step didn’t seem to make much of a difference.
I uploaded the firmware via the Arduino editor and the instruction on the GRBL wiki. Then, using the Arduino Serial Monitor, I entered the following settings.
| Description | Setting | Value |
| Step pulse, microseconds | $0 | 10 |
| Step idle delay, milliseconds | $1 | 255 |
| Step port invert, mask | $2 | 0 |
| Direction port invert, mask | $3 | 0 |
| Step enable invert, boolean | $4 | 0 |
| Limit pins invert, boolean | $5 | 0 |
| Probe pin invert, boolean | $6 | 0 |
| Status report, mask | $10 | 16 |
| Junction deviation, mm | $11 | 0.010 |
| Arc tolerance, mm | $12 | 0.002 |
| Report inches, boolean | $13 | 0 |
| Soft limits, boolean | $20 | 0 |
| Hard limits, boolean | $21 | 0 |
| Homing cycle, boolean | $22 | 1 |
| Homing dir invert, mask | $23 | 3 |
| Homing feed, mm/min | $24 | 100.000 |
| Homing seek, mm/min | $25 | 750.000 |
| Homing debounce, milliseconds | $26 | 100 |
| Homing pull-off, mm | $27 | 1.000 |
| Max spindle speed, RPM | $30 | 1000 |
| Min spindle speed, RPM | $31 | 0 |
| Laser mode, boolean | $32 | 1 |
| X steps/mm | $100 | 80.000 |
| Y steps/mm | $101 | 80.000 |
| Z steps/mm | $102 | 34.000 |
| X Max rate, mm/min | $110 | 1500.000 |
| Y Max rate, mm/min | $111 | 1500.000 |
| Z Max rate, mm/min | $112 | 300.000 |
| X Acceleration, mm/sec^2 | $120 | 300.000 |
| Y Acceleration, mm/sec^2 | $121 | 300.000 |
| Z Acceleration, mm/sec^2 | $122 | 10.000 |
| X Max travel, mm | $130 | 609.000 |
| Y Max travel, mm | $131 | 304.000 |
| Z Max travel, mm | $132 | 300.000 |
I entered each one by typing the Setting number “$0=” followed by the desired value. You can then verify that the values have been entered by typing “$$”, which lists all of the configuration values. For more details, head over to the GRBL wiki.
Bill of Materials
The following is as complete a Bill of Materials (BOM) as I can generate. My build was completed with mostly items I had on hand from other projects and I spent a total of $5 in new hardware. Please also note, most of my links are to amazon products. I do most of my shopping there, so most of the items are found through my order history, but I also, by you using the links, receive a small cut that helps me keep my site active. If you decide not to purchase through these links, please consider donating the cost of a coffee so I can keep this site active and growing.
Electronics BOM 2
| Item | Description | Qty |
|---|---|---|
| Endstop Mechanical Limit Switches | 2 needed | |
| 3-Pin Extension Cables | 1 | |
| Nema 17 Stepper Motor | 2 | |
| Analog DC Current Panel Meter | 1 |
Mechanical BOM
Glowing 3D Printed Flowers
RIDGID Oscillating Sander Wrench
Filament Health Monitor (Part 2 – Mechanical Assembly)
About Author
I recently bought the expansion kit from Hakan in Germany. It has got stuck in customs. I’ve been waiting since October I would just get my money back if you could help me with your kit. I know its a diy thing but I’m far from understanding how everything goes together as per your instructions. Would you consider putting everything together for me so that all i have to do is basically drop it in my case? I could pay the same as I have paid him. Thanks
Hello,
I built it from scrap and it really is prototype quality. I wouldn’t feel comfortable selling a kit as I could make no gaurantees to it’s lasting. I’ve only put a few hours on mine at this point. I’m local to Maryland, you don’t happen to be near by?
hi …
Great build and great instructions…
are all your mounting plates 3d printed?
if so any chance to grab a file with them? I do not own £d printer myself so would need to still find the place where I could get them printed for me…
Nice to hear from you. The parts can be downloaded from:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3401855
I’d offer to print the parts, but it looks like you are in the EU? You would save a lot on shipping finding someone local.
I am speechless. Beautiful work. thanks for sharing.
for two weeks now i am searching solutions for upgrading my K40 which i haven’t order yet. still learning what I am getting myself into. I really fancy your work so i am thinking of replicating your project. i am good with 3D printing and i have two printers which are perfectly calibrated. i wish to know which K40 to order since i see so many sellers selling different flavours, and I wonder if I can use MKS smoothie instead of this arduino shield as i will shorly upgrade my current board on my Delta to the latest MKS SGEN with TMC drivers.
Thank you for the kind words. I posted this more for my records than anything else, not thinking many would find it useful. I’m really glad I was wrong and my lessons learned can help you out.
The exact one I got was:
K40 from ebay
This had a few extras that at the time I thought were great. I ended up scrapping most of the extras. Don’t worry about the exhaust fan (replace it with the blower I recommended) or the corel CD, as it’s pirate and you will be replacing the hardware. The extra switches were nice to repurpose but you can easily get those yourself. I think you can get it a little cheaper by skipping these things. My design is fairly flexible and you should be able to adjust for most varients of the K40. As an aside, if the price isn’t much different I would recommend ordering through a company that has good buyer protection and returns as the laser tubes are a fragile item and if not packed well can break.
Tim
Hey Tim!
I am sorry for my late reply as I was doing my homework and spent a lot of fun time these last couple of weeks learning about lasers and such. fascinating suff and I’ve learned a lot. today i finally managed to pull the tigger and order a 40W laser machine. taking the decision took awhile since S&H fees to my country doubled the price of the machine so i tried to work around this.. to no avail. Anyways, Hopfully I will get it in a month or so and will use it as-is before i’ll upgrade it your way.
Again, thank you very much for sharing your great work. We need more good people like you around.
Cheers.
Great idea. I’ve been trying to figure out how to make the working area bigger. I have all the working pieces for a BuildLog2 laser, just need to shorten those rails a little and attach to the MDF/Alu base you came up with. Thanks!
Dave,
Super excited to have been a help. Please think about posting a make over on thingiverse when you get done so we can see pictures of your solution.
Happy building
Tim
I laid my parts out on the floor last night and everything is so bulky I wouldn’t be gaining much. Looks like I’m going to go with your stuff. With the honeycomb bed, how thick can you get your material? With the current K40 setup I’ve been able to get some glasses in there and etch those. Still possible?
Few things I am trying to find for this project. 1 is the y gantry drive pulleys , the long and short one. I can’t find them anywhere. I also need to know what size bearings are used. They are not listed. I already ordered the extrusions and I am printing out all the mounts in Carbon fill Petg. So if you can get me some amazon links I would gladly buy !
Hi,
I was so happy to find this design of yours that i’m building it right now. But I think there is quite a lot of difference in the casings of the K40. I couldn’t put the construction underneath the Tube area. I put in to more 20×20 beam to connect the front and back rail together and removed the board, now it wil fit. To give you an idea what i’m building i made a short video. https://youtu.be/iEM6Xufib_E
Thanks for sharing your design
Eduard
First burning results, “vrolijk pasen” in Dutch means happy easter. https://youtu.be/DzsFc5iRedI
Hi All,
Firstly thank yo so much for putting this together, all printed, built and sort of operational. A really impressive piece of engineering.
May I ask a quick question, not sure if you can help.
I use Laserweb and everything works fin as far as moving steppers, running jobs etc however I cannot get the laser to fire. I know the laser works as I’ve tested with a test switch and I’ve run 2 cables. One from the Earth on the CNC Shield and the other from Z+ on the CNC Shield. When I run a job and measure the voltage across them I get 5v so I know the pins work. I’ve run the cables to the GND and PWN pins on the power supply but still the laser will not fire even though there is 5V going to it.
What may I be missing here, I suspect its either some GCode I missed or something in the config file maybe? Except from that really pleased so far and looking forward to getting some bigger cuts done.
Thanks for much.
Sorry for a supper late reply, I get a LOT OF SPAM and yours got lost in the fold. My best guess is that it has to do with the laser being active low. The pin must be driven low to fire.
What size v-bearings are you using, for X-AXIS, and also what size for the Bearings for the Y-Axis that are enclosed in the Bearing HOlder.
These are the bearings I used: 608 Skate Board Bearings
Oh, sorry, and the V bearings were the large ones:
Large V Bearing
another ????? What did you use to mount the Optics by the tube. Did you make something Special or use the Factory Stuff? I have everything assembled and am having a HELL of a time getting the laser even somewhat aligned.
Keith,
I left the tube alone, didn’t touch it or move it. I also used the stock mirror and holder that is right next to the laser tube. I actually think getting this thing into alignment is one of the hardest parts. I started by sticking tape over the second mirror and adjusted the first mirror until I got it as close to centered as possible over the entire y motion. Then I did the same on the third mirror. To this day I still have some trouble with that last mirror and it will lead me to a redesign of the 3rd mirror mount and carriage at some time in the future. Hope it helps.
I did use both. But, please remember I conducted this build based off of scraps I had. You can modify pretty easily to fit your needs. The 20×20 made installing the y rails a lot easier, but I’m sure there are other ways to do it.
thank your project, can you send me diagram wiring between cnc shield and power supply Co2 laser detail. cause i’m vietnamese so i can not understand all of your project, my gmail: nhiduong23021997@gmail.com ,thank you very much
I have sent you the picture I have. I hope it helps.
Hi, any chance of some information/pictures of where you mounted the cable chains? Thanks
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Как выбрать насос для пруда.
Если вы приняли решение – оборудовать искусственный водоем, то вам потребуется специальное оборудование. Вы ведь не хотите получить болото вместо водоема? Тогда необходимо заботиться о чистоте и поддерживать водный баланс. Для этих задач существуют специальные насосы. У них есть существенные отличия от бытовых моделей, об этом мы сегодня и поговорим. Расскажем вам и о том, какие разновидности насосов для пруда существуют, и как выбрать хорошую модель.
Отличия насосов для пруда от бытовых моделей.
Бытовые насосы и насосы для пруда имеют схожие характеристики, и те и другие созданы чтобы перекачивать воду. Насосы для пруда созданы с расчетом на то, что работать они будут круглые сутки, в том числе и на полив. Разумеется, отличия касаются не только надежности, но и энергопотребления.
Разновидности насосов.
В бытовых целях использую два типа насосов:
Наводные; Погружные;
У каждого типа насоса есть свои преимущества, при этом есть и свой спектр задач. Вопрос – как выбрать хороший насос для пруда не требует вмешательства профессионалов, зная тонкости выбора, вы сможете сделать все самостоятельно.
Поверхностные насосы.
Эти модели иногда называются наводные. Из названия понятно, чем они отличаются от погружных. Наводные насосы устанавливаются на суше. Вода нагнетается из пруда, и затем проходит через фильтр. Этот тип насосов позволяет соединить общую систему с дополнительным оборудованием. Поверхностные насосы устанавливаются ниже, чем уровень воды в водоеме, для этого вам может потребоваться рыть специальную яму. Более того, некоторые модели разрешено ставить только в специально созданных колодцах.
Если у вас нет возможности разместить насос ниже, то придется устанавливать систему с обратным клапаном. Эта система имеет один большой минус – аппарат необходимо наполнять водой вручную, если во входном шланге нет воды. При установке такого насоса, позаботьтесь о том, чтобы сам аппарат не соприкасался с водой.
Несмотря на все перечисленные неудобства и условности, наводные насосы имеют ряд неоспоримых преимуществ:
Надежность в работе; Удобство в обслуживании;
За надежность и удобство придется платить, многие модели стоят дороже, чем их погружные конкуренты. Другой минус – при работе от таких насосов может исходить достаточно много шума.
Погружные насосы.
Данный вид насосов очень прост и в установке и при эксплуатации. Насос устанавливается в воде, и затем нагнетает жидкость в фильтрационную систему. Вам не придется монтировать трубопровод, погрузив насос в воду и подключив его, вы получаете полностью готовое к работе устройство. Устанавливать насос надо не на самое дно, а не небольшую возвышенность. Вы ведь не хотите, чтобы вся грязь со дна пруда, при включении насоса перемешалась в воде и забила насос. Выгодой этого типа насосов является их цена и бесшумная работа. Минус один, но существенный – область применения погружных моделей ограничена небольшими прудами.
Как выбрать хороший насос.
Выбирать насос надо под конкретный водоем. От этого зависит производительность. Слишком мощный насос, купленный с запасом, будет зря расходовать энергию. А слишком слабый – не справится с возложенными на него задачами. Необходимая производительность рассчитывается из объема воды, который насос должен перекачивать.
Многие используют пруд для полива. Если у вас схожая цель, то нужно ориентироваться на показатели дальности подачи воды. Некоторые модели созданы только для фильтрации воды внутри водоема. Выбирая модели погружного типа, старайтесь взять вариант, работающий при напряжении 12В или 24В, а не 220В, это убережет вас от возможных проблем.
Сегодня на рынке насосов очень много моделей и производителей. Можем порекомендовать импортные насосы из Европы: Grundfos, Wilo и Pedrollo. Например, модель Pedrollo NGAm 1A подойдет, в том числе и тем, кто хочет поливать водой из пруда. Цена на такой насос – около 300 долларов, но за это вы получаете качественную модель, с мощностью 750Вт и подачей 21 кубометра в час.
Подробно –
<a href=[Link deleted]для скважины цена
а также:
<a href=[Link deleted]насосыне станции
<a href=[Link deleted]для скважины метров
<a href=[Link deleted]станция leo
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Насосы для колодцев и скважин: виды и правильный выбор.
Насосы для колодцев и скважин являются одним из главных элементов системы водоснабжения любого частного дома. Их характеристики должны позволять бесперебойно обеспечивать водой дом, а при необходимости – и полив приусадебного участка, наполнение бассейна и т.д. О их типах, отличиях и их выборе для водоснабжения дома Вы можете узнать из этой статьи.
Содержание статьи:
Критерии выбора насосов.
При выборе насоса для колодца или скважины в первую очередь необходимо учесть расстояние до уровня воды в них. Если оно небольшое – не более 8-9 метров, то можно выбрать поверхностный самовсасывающий насос или глубинный (погружной). Если же до уровня воды более 8-9 м, то практически вариант один – глубинный (погружной) .
Выбрав тот или иной вид необходимо определиться с его основными характеристиками: высотой напора и производительностью. По этим характеристикам насос подбирают в зависимости от требуемого давления в системе водоснабжения дома и необходимого расхода воды (необходимая минимальная подача).
Кроме этого, необходимо учесть расстояние от дома до колодца или скважины и гидравлическое сопротивление в трубах, узлах и запорной арматуре (вентилях, кранах и т.д.). Для компенсации гидравлических потерь необходимо выбирать насос с запасом мощности (не менее 10%).
Типы насосов для колодцев или скважин.
Можна выделить два основных вида, в зависимости от их расположения по отношению к воде:
поверхностные; глубинные или погружные.
Поверхностные устанавливаются возле источника воды или в помещении, а в воду опускается только всасывающая труба с обратным клапаном на конце. В большинстве случаев, для пуска такого насоса всасывающая труба и сам он должны предварительно заполняться водой.
центробежными (вихревыми) без эжектора, одно- или многоступенчатыми; самовсасывающими, со встроенным или вынесенным эжектором.
Поверхностные центробежные насосы без эжектора могут всасывать воду из колодца или скважины с глубины не более, чем 7-8 м. Перед их пуском обязательно необходимо заполнить всасывающую трубу водой, так как если в трубе будет воздух, он самостоятельно ее закачать не сможет. Поэтому, при использовании таких поверхностных насосов на всасывающей трубе, опускаемой в воду, обязательно необходимо установить обратный клапан, чтобы вода из системы при неработающем насосе не уходила обратно. Если клапан будет держать нормально, то всасывающая труба будет постоянно заполнена водой и при последующих пусках её уже не надо будет заливать. Кроме этого, во всасывающую трубу во время работы не должен попадать воздух.
Одноступенчатые центробежные модели отличаются простотой конструкции, надежностью и невысокой ценой. Но они отличаются и довольно высоким уровнем шума при работе. Многоступенчатые агрегаты такого типа отличаются более низким уровнем шума и меньшим энергопотреблением, при тех же параметрах подачи и напора что и одноступенчатые. Такие п оверхностные насосы для колодцев или скважин без эжектора осуществляют подачу воды благодаря специальной многоступенчатой конструкции гидравлической части. Они практически бесшумны, имеют больший КПД, что является их преимуществом .
Самовсасывающие поверхностные насосы могут быть со встроенным или вынесенным эжектором, который позволяет им подымать воду с глубины большей за 8 м. Встроенный эжектор позволяет всасывать воду, даже если в трубе есть воздух. Такие насосы обеспечивают подъем воды из скважины или колодца за счет разряжения. Их недостатком является то, что они дороже обычных центробежных (вихревых) агрегатов, а также то, что у них относительно высокий уровень шума и поэтому их целесообразно устанавливать в специальном помещении вне дома.
Модели с вынесенным эжектором практически бесшумны, так как эжектор располагается в колодце или скважине. Они могут поднимать воду с глубины до 45 м, но они более сложны в монтаже и капризны в работе. К тому же, они очень чувствительны к механическим примесям в воде (песок, ил)
Одной из важных характеристик при выборе насоса любого вида – это его номинальная подача (м 3 /час) и напор. Большинство из поверхностных насосов для водоснабжения частного дома имеют подачу в пределах 4 – 8 м 3 /час и максимальный напор до 55 м.
Как правило, именно поверхностные насосы входят в стандартный комплект насосной установки для дома – "безбашенки".
Погружные (глубинные)
Как уже говорилось, когда уровень воды в скважине или колодце ниже 8-9 метров, то для подачи воды в систему водоснабжения дома необходимо выбирать только погружной (глубинный) насос. Хотя его вполне можно использовать и при меньшем уровне. Для подачи воды он полностью погружается в воду. Забор воды может осуществляться сверху или снизу.
При сезонных понижениях уровня воды необходимо следить, чтобы погружной (глубинный) насос всегда был в воде, иначе он выйдет из строя и придётся покупать новый. Этого недостатка лишены модели погружных насосов со специальными "поплавками" – поплавковыми выключателями, которые отключают их при критическом снижении уровня воды и предотвращают тем самым выход из строя.
Установка и монтаж глубинного насоса.
Глубинный (погружной) насос с помощью переходников и хомутов подсоединяется к трубе, подающей воду непосредственно в дом или к "безбашенке". Выше насоса обязательно устанавливают обратный клапан того же внутреннего размера, что и труба или большего – для уменьшения гидравлического сопротивления. На корпусе обратного клапана есть стрелка направления потока воды, чтобы не ошибиться при его установке – стрелка должна быть направлена вверх – по направлению движения воды. Если обратный клапан не установить, то при выключении насоса вода из системы будет уходить обратно в колодец или скважину, так как клапаны самих насосов не всегда надежно удерживают воду в системе.
Обычно сейчас для подачи воды из скважин или колодцев используют различные пластиковые жёсткие или гибкие армированные трубы . Для водоснабжения дома необходимо использовать трубы из так называемого пищевого пластика и рассчитанные на максимальное давление, которое будет в системе водоснабжения дома с достаточным запасом прочности. Кроме этого, обычно, они требуют стабильного напряжение в электросети ( + – 5%). Как правило, обязательно необходимо устанавливать обратный клапан и защиту от сухого хода (поплавковая система, датчики уровня или другие защитные устройства).Почему не работает глубинный насос?
Какой насос выбрать для водоснабжения дома?
Сейчас в продаже имеется большое разнообразие насосов для скважин и колодцев разных производителей (как зарубежных – Pedrollo, Grundfos, Calpeda, Wilo, так и отечественных) под самые различные условия эксплуатации и требования. В последнее время много на рынке и китайской продукции. Поэтому без труда можно подобрать оптимальный вариант в соответствии с необходимыми характеристиками, качеством и приемлемой ценой. При этом лучше всего ориентироваться на известного надежного производителя, но такие модели, как правило, дороже или можно посоветоваться со знакомыми, с теми кто уже имеет опыт эксплуатации тех или иных насосов подешевле.
Источник –
<a href=[Link deleted]vodotok бцпэ гв
<a href=[Link deleted]насос для пруда
Также, рекомендую –
<a href=[Link deleted]купить и
<a href=[Link deleted]для пруда на даче
Хелло форумчане! Мне часто помогает информация на форумах, расскажу, как я строил свой дом из деревянного бруса 120*120, из сосны, утепленный джутовой веревкой. На авации не претендую, комменты и подсказки помогут всем начинающим. Итак начнем.
Убрал старый домик из бруса, подготовил план участка и занялся разметкой фундамента. Забил клинья с раскосинами, по лазеру нашел горизонт поперечин и засаморезил поперечины. Отбил по уровню разметку. невелиру брал с хорошей точностью.
По разметке закрутил саморезы и натянул шпагат (стоит копейки).
По разметке выкопал траншею, постелил гидроизол и засыпал песком.
Спрессовал плитой его так, чтоб он стал очень жестким, завернул гидроизол – не стал клеить, установил начальный уровень шпагата, который пришлось убрать, чтоб вывезти остатки стройматериала, заколотил деревянные стойки, длиной 1300мм. Затем к этим стойкам начиная с верхнего края по шпагату начал прикручивать доску для опалубки 150*50 мм. Понял что лучше не экономить на доске для опалубки, даже с толстой доской и креплении 12 мм шпильками опалубка трещит.
Готовую опалубку закрыли изнутри толстой пленкой с помощью степлера и установил промежуточные опоры из кругляка диаметром 8 мм для арматуры фундамента.
А дальше жесть.
Приехал бетоновоз, т.к. он весит очень много он провалился, как только заехал на территорию, еле удалось его вытащить. Вобщем обошлось, стали заливать фундамент.
Через четыре часа после заливки на фундаменте появились поверхностные трещины. начальное паниковать Что делать. Полил водой и уехал домой, дома успокоился и уснул. Вечером пошел дождь и лил всю ночь, это выручило, приехав на огород я не увидел ни одной трещины.
Продолжение следует!
Кому нужен брус или готовый дом, могу помоч!
WhatsApp\Тел. 8(913)912-16-99 Иван
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